Diary #4 (B) - 25th July 2008

Weather
We arrived in Rab (on the Island of Rab) on the tail end of a Bora wind that had already blown 48 hours. We thought we had seen the last of the heavy winds when we left Pag on the 23nd July. We had suffered two nights of being thrown around on our anchor just off Metajna on Pag where we had sheltered from the Force 8 gale. We were mistaken!

On the morning of 21st we had stuck our nose out into the Velebitski Kanal knowing that a Bora was forecast to blow up to 40+ knots that evening. We thought we could make a dash to the safety of Rab that day. We were not happy to be the only boat in Metajna and felt a little vulnerable.

The Velebitski Kanal is infamous for the winds that howl down the mountains into the Kanal (at speeds of up to 150 knots in the winter!) from the mountains on its Eastern bank. As a consequence the Eastern shore of Pag and Rab that make up the Western side of the Kanal are completely stripped bare of any vegetation. Every year at least one boat is lost to the wind. On the 21st we knew there was wind out there which was forecast to increase through the day but hoped that the wind would be from our stern quarter and not on the nose as it proved to be (i.e. for the non-sailors – we would be at a comfortable point of sail, not trying to sail into the wind). After half an hour we made the decision that, as the wind was already a lot more than expected, we would turn round. This was definitely one of our more sensible decisions!

Our anchor had held well but, still being novices at all this, we had not thought until too late that we should put strops on the anchor. This meant that the anchor snatched so badly all night that the anchor pin bent. To retrieve the anchor Andy had to saw through our 8mm thick, stainless steel pin! Another lesson to file away.

The sail to Rab on the 23rd started well. We had a good breeze and a fair forecast. We had to tack up the Velebitski Kanal in winds that started very fluky but steadied to a nice force 3. As we approached Rab and entered the Paski Kanal we bore away onto a reach, shook out our reefs and were sailing at a good speed, so Andy decided to have a snooze.

I could see rain ahead but hoped that it would miss us as it appeared to be skirting round the Eastern edge of the Paski Kanal and Rab island. Suddenly the wind shifted and dropped – this woke Andy who was not so sure about the rain so went below to get the waterproofs. As he handed me mine the heavens opened. Then we both suddenly saw it ... a squall moving towards us. Quickly we reefed the Genoa. Just in time... as a huge wall of wind literally knocked Deep Blue over. Water poured over the rail. Our wind speed indicator is not reading correctly so at the time we did not know what speed the wind wall was but several people we met in the marina later told us that it was 40 knots. This was at 3pm not “over night” as forecast. Once the wall of wind passed we were left with very wet and windy conditions. We made a dash for the shelter of the land with the aid of the engine. No damage was done but we now know 40 knot squalls are to be avoided if possible, as they are a little scary!!!

Rab
Rab on Rab is beautiful. A positive oasis on the West coast of a barren island, there is something for everyone. Historically, it is a complete, walled medieval city with roots that date back to the Romans, then there are the cycle ways and walk ways in the forest to the west of the city. The many secluded bays are perfect for the snorkeler and the ever-present Austrian and German nudists. There are many good quality restaurants and hotels – the first time we have seen such up-market establishments. The city parks are well tended and really pretty. Then to top it all, it is the most lively city – in a Croatian way – that we have visited.

We have stayed two extra days because there is a medieval festival happening this weekend. The whole city is dressed and everyone has become their medieval persona. Last night we witnessed prisoners being accompanied to jail, the stocks (me!), blacksmiths at work, a distillery, falconers, crossbow fighters and sword fights. The town is alive with cooking and fishing, singing (the Croatian men sing the most wonderful harmonies) and dancing. Absolutely wonderful spectacle. What fun!

Last night we were joined by a very interesting American couple, Frank and Gail, who own a Saga 43. When we anchored next to them we noticed they were from Falmouth, Maine! I swam over to them to say hello and we decided to become the Falmouth contingent. They have been living aboard almost full time for nearly eight years having crossed to Europe four years ago. Their boat is lovely. Frank was a keen International Moth sailor, designing a new boat with his father each winter. He competed in 1968 in the Worlds in France. He also designed the keel on his Saga after finding the original an absolute dog – his design Saga now use as standard. They both have a great sense of humour and we really enjoyed their company. My favourite joke was their note when we were arranging a time to meet in which they wrote “just confirm by the standard form of communication “hollering””. We decided to go one better and replied with flags to confirm our 7.30 date which they loved - “hollering” over to say that they had had to get their book of flags out to confirm they had understood correctly!