Wednesday, 19 August 2009

Photos: Dardarnelles & İstanbul

After finally leaving the Greek Island of Limnos, on 1-Aug-09 we enter Turkey through the Dardanelles. Canakkale marina is close to the site of ancient Troy; we’ll visit Troy on the way back down from Istanbul.

Opposite Canakkale is the Gallipoli peninsular – the site of one of the most senseless waste of lives in the First World War (worse for the allies, especially the ANZACS, but also for the Turks, who’d chosen the wrong side).

We then explored the southern gulf of the Sea of Marmara. This is Brenda’s crab killing fishermen friend in the obviously poor town of Karabiga.

We encountered massive blooms (100’s of thousands of the blighters) of these Rhizostoma pulmo jellies – not a good environment sign and bad for morning swims.

The holiday resort town of Erdek packed so many people onto the meagre, stone beaches...

Balik and Ekmek (fish and bread) is the thing to eat there – this little setup was right next to Deep Blue.

At last, we approach the Bosporus and the great city of Istanbul – the Princes Islands are at lower right.

Our ‘fab and fun, Susie First Class’ joins us for a second time (last year it was in Corfu).

We sail off to the Princes Islands for 3 nights – the largest one, Buyukada, has some beautifully preserved Ottoman mansions (impossible to insure!). No cars allowed – great!

The main town had some good supplies for us.

The anchorage on the west coast turned out to be quite prone to swell.

Susie and Brenda explore in our toy tender.

We then anchored for two, flatter nights on this southern bay of the next smaller Heybeliada Island.

Susie comes laden with gifts from home; including this amazing silk dress for Brenda which we toast!

Taking in the sunshine – not TOO hot – on the sail back to Istanbul.

The numerous ferries have to be avoided – they only have one speed: Full Speed Ahead. The fabulous skyline presented by the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia comes closer.

Blue Mosque – perhaps too elaborate?!

The spice Bazaar by the New Mosque is quite literally, fabulous.

Hagia Sophia – the church of holy wisdom – was originally built in the 6th century by the Byzantines and converted by the Ottomans to a mosque in the 15th century.

Inside the gorgeous Blue Mosque – the countless hand-painted Iznik tiles give it is blue hue.

Next, to the sultan’s home for over 400 years – the Topkapi palace – affording a superb view up the Bosporus...

...And west over the Golden Horn – the Bagdad pavilion in background...

... with another beautiful domed ceiling.

Back to the New Mosque and a late ferry back to our Asian side marina.

Saturday night is the night to party – in one of the numerous clubs and bars within the excellent Fernerbahce Marina.

A late Sunday start and another visit to the yacht club – check out that view! A 6 hour lunch ensued with new friends.

Including meeting again our lovely Greenpeace oceans campaign friend, Banu, last seen in Karaca Sogut (our home last winter).

One more sightseeing day back on the European side started down in the vast Byzantine basilica cistern, built nearly 1600 years ago. Is used to contain 100,000 tons of freshwater, but still has lots of fish.

One of many vast views inside Hagia Sophia basilica. Ataturk in his wisdom gave it over to the nation as a living museum (£10 entrance!) as restoration work continues to uncover the Byzantine works of art – mostly gorgeously detailed biblical mosaics.

Two gorgeously turned out beauties with our good Turkish friend, Sardar (Pierce Brosnan’s 007 stunt double in ‘the World is not enough’ – cool and very interesting guy). A top, last night out with Susie!


We say goodbye to Istanbul – wow!

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